Comment broder Bullion stitch
Tutoriels de points de broderie > Tous les points > Bullion stitch
The Bullion stitch, step by step
We guide you here, step by step, to embroider the Bullion stitch.
The bullion stitch is built by wrapping the thread several times around the needle to form, once pulled through, an elongated raised stitch with close, even wraps.
1 – Bring the needle up at A on the right side of the work and pull the thread. Insert the needle at B, at the desired distance — this distance determines the length of the finished stitch. Bring the needle back up just above A without pulling it all the way through.
2 – Hold the eye of the needle between the thumb and middle finger of the left hand at the base. With the right hand, wrap the thread around the tip of the needle. The number of wraps must cover the distance between A and B. Keep the wraps in place with the right index finger throughout this step.
3 – Take all the wraps between the left thumb and index finger and hold them firmly. Gently pull the needle with the right hand while keeping the wraps close together between the fingers. Continue pulling until the wraps settle at the base of the fabric and resist — this is the signal that the stitch is in place. Then pivot the thread towards B by pulling in that direction. Check the evenness of the wraps and adjust if necessary with the tip of the needle.
4 – Insert at B to secure the stitch. Pass the thread to the wrong side of the fabric and fasten it under the stitches already worked.
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FOR RIGHT-HANDED EMBROIDERERS: The stitch is worked naturally from left to right.
FOR LEFT-HANDED EMBROIDERERS: The stitch is worked naturally from right to left. Tips for a successful bullion stitch
Tips for a perfect bullion stitch
Consistency of the wraps: The wraps must be even and loose enough to allow the needle to slide through easily — neither too tight nor too widely spaced.
Number of wraps: The number of wraps must cover the distance between A and B to achieve a straight, even stitch. Beyond this, the extra wraps will cause the stitch to curve — which can be intentional for composing petals or curved shapes.
Working without a hoop: Work without a hoop for this stitch if possible — holding the work in the hand allows better control of the wrap tension and the pivoting of the thread.
Repositioning the wraps: Once the thread has been pivoted towards B, reposition the wraps with the fingers or the tip of the needle to achieve an even finish before inserting at B.
Grouping the stitches: Bullion stitches can be grouped together to compose flowers, buds or small embroidered roses.
Result
On the front: an elongated raised stitch formed by even, close wraps.
On the back: two discreet anchor stitches corresponding to the entry points at A and B.
EXPLORE FURTHER
The Bullion stitch, an essential stitch for learning hand embroidery
The bullion stitch is used to embroider voluminous floral motifs, buds and structured compositions.
Its ability to create elongated and curved shapes gives it a prominent place in traditional embroidery.
Arranged in a circle or fan, several bullion stitches are enough to form a rose or a stylised flower.
The bullion stitch: a raised stitch technique formed by wrapping the thread around the needle.
Its construction rests on a precise gestural principle — winding the thread around the needle before pulling — which produces a dense, three-dimensional and even stitch.
The number of wraps controls both the length and the curve of the stitch, offering great freedom of composition.
It is one of the most expressive techniques in hand embroidery.
DISCOVER OTHER STITCHES
Why learn the Bullion stitch?
• understand how to manage thread tension when wrapping around the needle
• develop two-hand coordination for a precise, controlled gesture
• acquire a raised stitch technique applicable to many floral compositions
• play with the number of wraps to achieve straight or curved shapes according to the desired effect
Learn the Bullion stitch with Un Chat dans l’Aiguille
At Un Chat dans l’Aiguille, the bullion stitch is taught step by step with clear, structured guidance.
Our approach to teaching is part of a complete hand embroidery stitch encyclopaedia, designed to support every embroiderer on their journey.
It allows you to progress at your own pace whilst building precision, consistency, and confidence in hand embroidery.